English Georgian cut steel tassel necklace c.1810

This exquisite and ancient necklace dates back to the 1810s during the English Georgian period and is crafted entirely from cut steel.

Jewelry made from cut steel is believed to have originated in the 17th century in Woodstock, England, and gradually spread to London, Birmingham, and other regions. Due to its affordability, cut steel jewelry was accessible to all social classes. With the strict dress codes in France, Switzerland, and other countries, the demand for cut steel jewelry surged in the 1760s and continued to sweep across France, Italy, and the rest of Europe for several decades, remaining popular until the late Victorian era. However, mass production in later years led to a decline in quality, with fewer facets and a tendency for steel to become brittle if exposed to moisture. Therefore, pieces that have been well-preserved are truly rare treasures.

At first glance, cut steel may resemble marcasite with its iron-gray luster, but cut steel jewelry is unique in that both the setting and the gem substitutes are made from the same material. The steel is cut and polished to create multiple shiny facets, then riveted into a steel base without the need for prongs. Early pieces could have ten to twenty facets in a single "gem," and the uniform material allowed for a tight, pavé-like setting that produced a mysterious yet brilliant dark sheen with the distinct coolness of metal.

Interestingly, despite the material's low cost, cut steel jewelry was not limited to the lower classes. The Swedish royal family, for instance, owns the "Napoleonic Cut-Steel Tiara," closely associated with Napoleon Bonaparte, which Crown Princess Victoria has worn on numerous significant occasions.

The necklace features round steel beads strung together, with the upper part of the pendant showcasing a floral design predominantly composed of marquise-cut steel. Each component displays meticulous faceting and corresponding brilliance. The lower part primarily consists of round-cut "jewels," equally elaborate in design. The reverse side reveals the characteristic rivet setting of this material, ensuring stability without additional support. The bottom tassel adds a lively touch and enhances the visual weight, making this piece a stunning, unique creation that radiates the charm of its era.

The necklace is in good antique condition, with normal oxidation and wear marks. The steel is perfectly preserved and rust-free. As the assessment of antique conditions is highly subjective, please click and enlarge our photos to view more detailed condition aspects for your judgment.