STYLE
ERA
Portuguese imperial topaz ring, mid-18th century
This rare Portuguese ring dates to the mid 18th century and features a vibrant imperial topaz set in an 18k gold and silver mount. The topaz is set closed-back and has been examined under a jewelry microscope, showing no foil backing. The 18k gold shank is a later addition from the 19th century.
The ring’s design showcases a striking interplay of cuts and geometry: a large pear-shaped imperial topaz sits boldly at the center, framed by a border of step-cut stones in trapezoidal shapes. The closed-back setting and handmade craftsmanship give the ring a richly textured, antique character. Though the stone is unfoiled, it displays a luminous blend of soft pink and warm orange hues—an effect often enhanced in such antique pieces through carefully chosen settings.
The pear shape of the central stone—broad at the top and tapering to a point—is a historic interpretation of the heart motif, distinct from the symmetrical heart shapes we see today. This form was popular in late 18th- to early 19th-century European jewelry, often seen in “crowned heart” designs. Napoleon’s famous Toi et Moi engagement ring for Joséphine, commissioned in 1796, is believed to have featured a similarly shaped old-style heart.
The ring is in good antique condition consistent with its age, showing normal signs of oxidation and wear. Some facet edges show minor abrasions. As condition is subjective, please click and enlarge our photos to examine the piece closely before making your evaluation.
some facet edges show minor abrasions