Late 19th Century French Sword Jabot Brooch, c.1890

This French sword jabot brooch from the late 19th century is crafted in solid 18k gold, set with pearls and a garnet topped doublet (GTD).

The sword motif is rendered with strong dimensionality and structural clarity. The grip is finished with spiral fluting, while the curved quillons extend the same flowing line and terminate in pearls. Both sides of the hilt are decorated with raised foliate motifs, and the scabbard is sharply defined with crisp edges, achieving a high level of balance between ornament and construction.

The blue stone set in the brooch is a garnet topped doublet (GTD), constructed with a thin slice of natural garnet placed over a base of coloured glass. The garnet cap provides greater hardness and surface durability than coloured glass alone. Depending on the colour of the base layer, this technique was used to simulate a range of gemstones and represents a mature and widely accepted gem-setting practice in late 19th-century European jewelry.

The brooch bears the French eagle head assay mark for 18k gold, along with a maker’s mark. The safety chain is 14k gold and is not original to the piece.

The brooch is in good antique condition, showing normal signs of oxidation and wear consistent with age and use. As condition assessments are subjective, please click and enlarge our photos to review detailed condition aspects as part of your evaluation.