German Poissarde Earrings with Garnet and Pearl c.1810

This is a pair of German earrings from the early 19th century, crafted entirely in 14k gold and adorned with garnets and pearls. These types of earrings are known as Poissarde earrings.

The term "Poissarde" is derived from French, meaning "fisherman's wife." The design of these earrings varies greatly, with some being long and dangling, while others are round or square, often decorated with enamel or gemstones. A distinctive feature of Poissarde earrings is the S-shaped structure on the earring hooks and the front-clasp design, where they are fastened from back to front.

There are two main theories about the origin of the name. One theory is that the open structure of the earrings resembles a fishhook, hence the association with fishermen and their wives who wore them. The other theory suggests that these types of earrings were initially worn by the wives of fish vendors in markets, hence the name. Regardless of which theory is correct, it is known that these earrings were very popular in France, Germany, and Italy from 1795 to 1820. Besides their aesthetic appeal, they also held a deeper significance related to freedom and revolution.

As mentioned, the wives of fish vendors often wore these earrings. These women, in terms of social status and economic condition, represented other market women. These market women led a riot at the beginning of the French Revolution. During this period, France faced a nearly bankrupt monarchy, bourgeois dissatisfaction with noble privileges, and an unstable environment due to population growth and economic changes. In 1789, the long-standing anger of the people erupted when prices rose again. A group of Parisian market women initiated a protest march, ultimately attracting thousands to the city hall.

Therefore, examining the fashion trends a few years after the revolution, it is understandable why Poissarde earrings became especially popular after the 1790s. They symbolized the tangible influence of women who had long been excluded from politics. These earrings represented a break from the status quo, class barriers, and the power of citizens, particularly women.

The earrings exhibit the romantic style and naturalistic floral motifs of the Biedermeier period. The smooth, cloud-like design is layered, adorned with gold bead patterns, and features a vibrant flower made of garnets and pearls at the center. This flower resonates with the wavy contour of the gold body. The flower's center is represented by a pearl, adding a gentle touch.The petals are tightly clustered garnets, rose-cut to present a three-dimensional, eye-catching effect. The rich red color and faceted cut make the piece more substantial.

The earrings are in good antique condition, showing normal oxidation and notable wear at the joints. They bear early German 14k gold hallmarks, which are  blurred and hardly recognizable. Since condition assessment is subjective, please click and enlarge our photos to view more details for your evaluation.