German Jugendstil plique à jour dragonfly brooch c.1900

This German Jugendstil plique-à-jour dragonfly brooch, c. 1900, is crafted in silver and set with pastes, with its wings adorned using the plique-à-jour enameling technique.

The brooch vividly captures the elongated and elegant silhouette of a dragonfly, with intricate web-like details on its thorax and abdomen enhancing its realism. The slightly curved body adds a sense of natural fluidity to the design.

The most striking feature is the translucent wings, rendered in shades of lake green with gradient hues flowing seamlessly through the plique-à-jour enamel. The granulated texture of the wing frames adds a refined touch, while the vibrant red compound eyes bring the dragonfly to life, evoking the image of a real dragonfly skimming the surface of a summer lake.

Plique-à-jour, a French term meaning "letting in daylight," originates from the Latin smalta clara. This enameling technique first emerged in the Byzantine Empire during the 6th century. Unlike traditional enameling, plique-à-jour lacks a metal backing, requiring meticulous skill to fill the enamel within delicate frames and carefully control the firing temperature. The result is a thin, translucent effect akin to a stained glass window.

Originally used in church rose windows, the technique was later adapted to jewelry, offering luminous, multi-colored, and gradient effects. It reached a creative zenith during the Art Nouveau period. Due to its fragile nature, well-preserved pieces like this brooch are rare and highly collectible.

This brooch is in good antique condition, showing normal oxidation and wear. The plique-à-jour enamel remains intact without any damage. As condition assessments are subjective, please click and enlarge our photos to examine additional details for your evaluation.